Growing up, birria meant something.
It wasn't a Tuesday dinner — it was quinceañeras, Christmas Eve, the table with every leaf put in. My abuela would start the night before: toasting chiles until the kitchen stung a little, soaking them, blending, skimming the pot for hours. You could smell it from the driveway.
When she passed, that smell went with her. I bought the chiles, found a recipe online — and it was fine. But it wasn't hers. Then it hit me: nobody was going to keep this alive for us. If the tradition survives, it survives through my kitchen.








