Growing up, birria meant something.
It wasn't a Tuesday dinner — it was quinceañeras, Christmas Eve, the table with every leaf put in. My abuela would start the night before: toasting chiles until the kitchen stung a little, soaking them, blending, skimming the pot for hours. You could smell it from the driveway.
When she passed, that smell went with her. I tried to make it a few times — bought the chiles, found a recipe online — and it was fine. But it wasn't hers. After a couple of sad, six-hour Sundays, I just… stopped. And a little piece of the family stopped with it.



